So, here we are in Valentia Island on another blustery day. The wind is gusting near 30 kts and we are hunkered down baking cookies for my birthday. We have been slowly working our way around the West Coast going up and down the bays and sneaking out into the Atlantic for a few hours at a time. The Southwest Coast is like a witches hand; all gnarly and crooked, and we just keep sailing around her fingers and anchoring behind the knuckles where there just happen to be some great “tidy towns” that also have cozy little pubs.

Our first stop was in Dunboy Cove near Castletownbere, where we anchored in front of a massive manor house that has been restored but sits empty. We took a little walk into town to see the sights and mix with the locals. We then had a sweet sail up Bantry Bay on a deep reach with one gybe into Glengarriff where we sailed to our anchor. I know I haven’t been many places but I believe this harbor is the most beautiful spot I’ve seen! We were nestled in a keyhole cove with tiny islets all around us, surrounded by sharp crags and sweeping hillsides. The islets were dotted with basking Harbor Seals. The village is a truly park-like setting with nature trails and gardens surrounding it. A 5 minute boat ride away is the island of Garinish which was owned for 43 years by a man with a dream to create a garden paradise. He picked the perfect spot as this cove has a subtropical microclimate perfect for a wide variety of horticultural delights. We spent hours walking through the various motifs and follies.

On another day we hopped on the bus to Bantry town to tour Bantry House, since the 18th century the abode of the Earl of Bantry. This too had great gardens and also a beautiful home, which is still occupied. We had a pint at The Anchor and fish and chips at the local cafe then headed back on the bus. The Irish buses are comfy and clean tour-types and the views are better not having to drive myself.

Back in Glengarriff we were treated to some great local music and more good food. We bought three lobsters from a waterman as he was unloading his catch. We took them home and steamed them up. Delicious!!

After Glengarriff we sailed back down the bay and around Dursey Head toward Dingle Bay. Enroute we sailed past the Skelligs which are tall rocky mounts a few miles off shore. Skellig Michael was home to a group of monks who lived in stone beehive houses dating back 1400 years. You can take a shuttle boat out to experience it first hand, but they only allow 180 people a day, 12 at a time. It used to be easy to get a ride but the Star Wars empire filmed a scene there and now you need to book a year in advance.

Anyway we sailed up into Dingle Bay and stopped at the cute little village of Portmagee, which of course has a Darth Vader and Luke Skywalker in every shop window. This is where you catch the boats out to Skellig Michael. Portmagee is one of those one street villages that is now surrounded by summer flats. But if you don’t look beyond front street it could easily be 1900. We only stayed there for a day as we were concerned about the weather deteriorating and we needed better protection. So we sailed around Valentia island and are now tucked quietly in the cove of Beginish island. It is a small strip of land with two or three houses and two or three hundred sheep.

Just a short dinghy ride takes us into Knightstown with its good harbor and lively activities; kids jumping from the pier until they are blue and then eating ice cream and jumping in some more. By the way, the water temp is 67 degrees! There’s a little market that sells great bread and Boston’s Pub where you can catch up on all the village doings. This is the place where the first trans-Atlantic telegraph cable was laid from North America and there is a good little museum that we want to visit. An even shorter dinghy ride takes us across the harbor to Reynard Point and The Point restaurant; great seafood and better conversation. We love these Irish pubs for sharing stories and learning local lore. We’ve been getting recommendations for stops on our upcoming rail travels.

Well that brings us up to date. The wind meter just topped 32kts but all is smooth and warm down below. It should abate by tomorrow afternoon so we’ll see what happens next. Remember to check the Book Nook and Studio for the latest. Also, say hello or, better yet, come sail with us. Cheers!