Wow, it has been a Rip Van Winkle’s age since we last wrote, and I sure look it! We have made it to the Canary Islands. But so much has happened in the mean time we’ll just turn back the time machine to Ireland.
We finally worked our way back to Baltimore where we were welcomed by the gang at the Algiers and set to work putting Zephyr in order for the upcoming passages. We took the bus to Skibbereen for groceries and a replacement engine start battery. The old one was past its prime. I had to hump that 75 lb beast halfway across town when Sean, our hero, showed up and loaded it in his van and toted it home for us. Sean and Bill, from The Algiers, also loaded us up with ice and a case of N/A beer for a bon voyage. We can’t express how fond we are of West Cork and the folks in and around Baltimore, Ireland.
Back on the boat, our new freezer had arrived, along with assorted goodies and necessities for Nancy’s pantry. After much pushing and pulling, we got the new copper lines led and connected the new compressor/condenser unit and were ready to charge it up. But wait. The fridge guy was on holiday so no freezer, sad. On top of that, the watermaker started acting irregularly, but it still made water, so we said our farewells to Ireland and set off for Madeira.
The passage south was fairly uneventful with light winds and calm seas for the majority of the trip. Nine days to Porto Santo. We flew every sail in the inventory even the spinnaker and gennaker, woo hoo. The air got gradually warmer and by the time we anchored in the crystal clear waters of Porto Santo the water was warm enough for a relaxing swim. Our first ocean dip in nearly two years!
Porto Santo is a lovely island on the north side of Madeira, with a miles-long beach and sweet town nearby. The anchorage was subject to a bit of a roll if the wind dropped or went too far east, but we slept well in the cool evening breeze and it was a short dinghy ride to the docks. G&Ts at the yacht club bar and a mile walk to town for local fish and their famous bola bread. Toasted with garlic butter, it melts in your mouth! After a few days relaxing we sailed on down to Madeira and tied up at the Qunta do Lorde Marina. It is almost a necessity to use a marina as there are few anchorages and they are all quite uncomfortable in most winds. The swell wraps around the island in big lumpy rolls. Quite fun to watch as they crash into shore but not so enjoyable as your food slides across the table at meal times.
Amanda, the marina goddess, took care of all our needs. She knew who to call to get our freezer going and the next day he was down at Zephyr, evacuating the new system and charging with refrigerant. The next evening we had ICE! (not the masked goon type) in our evening cocktails. The watermaker was still wonky, so after exchanging multiple emails with the manufacturer in Australia a new electric motor was dispatched. Fortunately it got to Lisbon, Portugal in 3 days. Unfortunately it got held up in customs for another 10 days! Fortunately there is a beautiful Hyatt resort Zimu adjacent to the marina where for 100 euros we could get an all inclusive day pass. Unfortunately it was high season and they didn’t allow day passes. Fortunately Nancy is most resourceful and went on line and got us a room for a night for less than the price of two day passes. Pool, food, drinks, food, beach, food, drinks, karaoke, air conditioning! Unfortunately, it was only for one night. We also met several gentle folks and adorable kids. We even had Garry and his family down to Zephyr to show the kids around. When they’re ready to crew we’ll gladly take them on.
Yes I said karaoke, Nancy and I both got up and sang a few ditties. It was a very supportive crowd, what with free drinks and all. As the days waiting for customs dragged on we took a ride into town for groceries and assorted boat parts then Nancy found us another TWO nights at the resort for next to almost, kinda nothing. Anyway if you closed your eyes it looked like nothing. We ate at the “French” restaurant, it was okay. Then we ate at the “Brazilian” steak house and it was delightful. More ice cream and skewers and pastries and breakfast and air conditioning and pool.
Still no joy from customs, so we took a ride into Funchal on Sunday. There is a delightful gondola lift to the top of the town where we walked through the old town and explored the botanical gardens, and looked at a church where the last emperor of Austria is buried. Then, back down the gondola to the market for some produce and a cafe for the best grilled sardines and octopus salad we have ever tasted attended by two older gentlemen who made it a true experience. And Sangria.
Funchal is a lovely, clean city to walk through. Many boulevards, parks and bistros to ogle. The buildings are of that lovely colonial style and quite well maintained. We ate dinner at Akua a Michelin recommended spot. It is a small place with the kitchen up front and a great vibe. The staff were great and the food was interesting. We had three types of fish sausages that were fun and tasty. But the curry prawns were top notch. With a bright Madeiran wine. Accessible pricing as well.
So, I must tell you about the island of Madeira. It is very vertical! Houses terraced on top of each other, very steep inclines and the roads are all switchbacks, until… Not to long ago it took 4 hours to drive from Lorde at the east end of the island (where we are berthed) to Funchal. Now it can be done in under 30 minutes. All thanks to an ingenuous, and thrilling highway system of winding tunnels and bridges that penetrate and straddle the mountainous terrain. It is all quite amazing to see. Oh, and the airport runway is built on stilts which extend out over the bay looking like a giant aircraft carrier. They say it is rather unsettling to land there. I’ll stick to the sailing approach, thank you. Oh, they also store sailboats under the runway, as it stands 250 feet above the shore.
Finally, customs released my parts and DHL delivered them. So Monday we went to the pool for a dip. We met some delightful Canadians and enjoyed cool drinks poolside for the afternoon. Tuesday we said our farewells. We got permission to anchor at Deserta Grande for the night. It is a barren volcanic mound 20 miles from Madeira which is a sanctuary for Monk Seals (no pun intended). We could see the bottom 60′ below, but no seals. Then off to Spanish territory!
What a ride! 36 hours to the island of Graciosa at the northeast end of the Canaries. We started the morning on a starboard reach until we were clear of the Desertas then port reach for 250 miles to the anchorage here. The first twenty hours were a pleasant 6 knots with 12 kts of breeze. Then it picked up to 20-24 kts and we were flying along at 10-11 knots until we changed the headsail and put a reef in the main for dinner, that slowed us down to a comfortable 9 kts. We dropped anchor in a lovely cove at midnight under a full moon. I let my mom know we were parked and went to bed.
Today the wind continues to blow 18-22 kts across the low beach in front of us, but it is smooth in the cove. We haven’t gone to shore because it is a marine reserve area and no outboard motors are allowed. Now, I like to row, but 1/2 mile into this chop? In a rubber boat? I’ll pass, besides we’d rather go for a dip right here, the water is 78 degrees F. Tomorrow we head around to Lanzarote which we will explore until the end of August when Zephyr gets hauled for a bottom painting. Nancy will fill in the gaps with her beautiful photos.
Lots of new Book Nook titles since last time, so humor me and take a look. We will be heading to the Cape Verde Islands in November and then to the Caribbean for the winter. Join us for those passages if you can. We enjoy the help and the extra sleep. Cheers!
